[toggle_content title=”Cleaning procedure for the Mystic, Patriot & Miranda boosters”]
- Prior to firing the suppressor, remove the rear cap from the booster housing and examine the piston assembly. This will make you familiar with the arrangement of the parts for future reference.
- Reassemble the booster housing as follows:
- Lubricate the piston with high quality grease, preferable one that contains molybdenum disulfide. (Moly based grease)
- Note how the piston has 10 notches, these notches are important in that one of them is going to have to locate on the locator pin in the bottom of the housing.
- Insert the lubricated piston into the housing and once it is at the bottom of the pocket, turn it to align the locator pin with one of the notches, any notch will do at this point.
- Once it aligns with a notch, the piston will enter the booster housing another 1/8” and seat against the bottom of the pocket.
- Next insert the spring into the housing first over the piston.
- Coat the threads on the rear cap with anti-seize lube and lube the o-ring that is inside the rear cap with oil or grease.
- Install the rear cap into the housing and tighten the cap finger tight. Excessive torque on the cap is not necessary and will only make later removal more difficult, possibly requiring a return trip to our facility for repair.
- The only difference in these instructions is that after the suppressor has been fired, we recommend dismantling the booster assembly and cleaning it to prevent it from becoming stiff from carbon buildup. This is accomplished by using powder solvent and a stiff brush, please do not scrape the booster housing with metal tools as it will scar the housing and make operation erratic.
- Place a few drops of oil into the booster and allow it to seep into the spring chamber before each use to prevent carbon binding as well.
[toggle_content title=”Cleaning procedure for the Constitution”]
- To dismantle the Constitution for cleaning, first clamp the spanner wrench in the vise with the pins facing up.
- Insert the wrench into the rear cap detent holes. Unscrew the suppressor core from the tube using your hand top turn the tube.
- Scrub the inside of the tube with a 10 ga. Shotgun bore brush or something equivalent to it.
- Cleaning the baffles is best accomplished by taping off the front of the core to protect the paint and sand blasting the core till it is clean to your standards.
- When cleaning the core be careful not to damage the threads.
- To reassemble, lubricate the core with some oil and insert the core into the tube.
- Coat the core threads in anti-seize lubricant and screw the tube onto the suppressor core. Tighten the tube as tight as possible by hand, this will be plenty of torque.
[toggle_content title=”Cleaning procedure for the Kodiak, Kodiak TL, Essence”]
- To dismantle the Kodiak for cleaning, first clamp the spanner wrench in the vise with the pins facing up.
- Set the suppressor on the pin wrench by inserting the wrench pins into the rear cap detent holes. Unscrew the suppressor from the endcap using the flat bar provided, by placing it in the cross slots in top of the suppressor.
- Now that the rear cap is removed, use some penetration oil to wet the baffle stack and let it soak for at least 30 minutes to help lubricate the core for removal. (only needed if fired more than 500 rounds typically)
- Screw the core driver into the core firmly seating it into the core by hand.
- Drive the core out of the tube by holding the tube with your hand and twisting the core driver and pushing at the same time or driving the core with a small DEAD BLOW hammer of approximately 12 to 16 ounce in size. Be careful and do not let the core slip from the tube uncontrolled as it can be damaged or even worse (rendered inoperable) if allowed to fall to the floor with the core driver installed in it. We also have a video
on youtube which shows an alternative core removal method.
- Scrub the inside of the tube with a 10 ga. Shotgun bore brush or something equivalent to it to clear debris from the tube.
- Cleaning the baffles is best accomplished by taping off the front of the core to protect the paint (if painted) and sand blasting the core till it is clean to your standards. Scraping with small tools also works, it is not crucial that the baffles be surgically clean for the suppressor to work properly.
- When cleaning the rear cap and be careful not to damage the threads.
- To reassemble, lubricate the core with some oil and insert the core into the tube, if it is too tight to push in by hand, use a dead blow mallet to “help” the core into the tube.
- Coat the rear cap threads in anti-seize lubricant and screw the rear cap back onto the suppressor. Tighten the rear cap with the wrench, not to exceed 5 ft/lbs. of torque.We have a video on our webpage as well, in the Kodiak section of the site.